Alexander Selkirk Island & several days at sea
formerly known as Isla Mas Afuera
not actually the island on which Alexander Selkirk was marrooned for over 4 years, but close by!
Think of Daniel Defoe’s classic novel Robinson Crusoe and you will be picturing an intrepid castaway, marooned on a paradisiacal island. That image might be ideal for movie lovers, but the actual inspiration for Robinson Crusoe was a salty Scottish seadog who went by the name of Alexander Selkirk. Selkirk was marooned in Chile’s Juan Fernandez archipelago for four years and four months, rescued by a British private warship. Despite Selkirk’s slightly chequered past, he was greeted as a celebrity upon his return to England. His adventures were given a gloss and immortalised in the much loved 18th century classic. Alejandro Selkirk Island is located 165 kilometres west of the other islands in the archipelago, for a surface area of just under 50 m2. The island was renamed from its Spanish name Isla Más Afuera in 1966 by the Chilean government in homage to the sailor. The topography is very different form the Caribbean dream that Defoe writes about, think dense woodland, rugged coast and peaks, shrouded (more often than not) in cloud. Sandy beaches can be found to the north of the island. Throughout much of its history, the island has been uninhabited, although there is a former penal settlement on the middle of the east coast, which operated from 1909 to 1930. During the summer months, Selkirk welcomes a small community of lobster fishermen and their families who come from Robinson Crusoe. As part of the Chilean National Park, it also holds the UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve title.
Throughout much of its history, the island has been uninhabited. There was formerly a penal settlement along the middle of the east coast. About 20 buildings can be made out on detailed satellite images. The settlement was operative from 1909. It initially housed 190 criminals, while there were as many as 160 political prisoners from 1927 to 1930. The penal colony was abandoned in 1930.
Recently, the island has seen regular settlement, with 57 people living on the island as of the 2012 census. In 1966 the Chilean government renamed Isla Más Afuera as Alejandro Selkirk Island, with Isla Más a Tierra becoming Robinson Crusoe Island. Alexander Selkirk was a Scottish sailor who was marooned as a castaway on Más a Tierra (then uninhabited) from 1704 to 1709. His story of survival likely inspired the 1719 novel Robinson Crusoe by Daniel Defoe.
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March21st
Had arrived at Alexander Selkirk Island by 8 am, pre dawn, and there was too much swell to use the zodiacs .So we had a 2 hour ship's cruise around the island. Just 5 people lived in the small village there which was once a penal colony. We spent most of this time up high at the front on Deck 7, mostly by ourselves.
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A siesta after lunch before Dmitrís long talk on James Cook's first voyage ,circa 1770. Afternoon tea and then another talk by Chris on the Valdivia Temperate Rain forest, and it was indeed a different one to that he had given on the first leg, and had several photos of our previous day´s hike. Recap and Briefing. After drinks and canapees we joined up with Ian and Christine for dinner
Dinner PHOTO?
Chatted to Christine & Ian after dinner, luckily the Karioke had been canceññed
March 23rd
After breakfast and a short stop in the gym, we attended the Animal Navigation Lecture by Anthony, followed by a Wine presentation by Biljana.
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A very pleasant stir fry lunch out on deck. . Sat upon deck7 for a while, but the sun was too hot to stay there too long.
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Then waited for a bridge game but only one other, Marianne, showed up. Went to Jackiés lecture on Plate Techtonics, followed by a walk around the decks, afternoon tea and trivia and then Dmitrí's talk, all 70 minutes of it, on Kon Tiki and other eccentric crossings of the Pacific Ocean. At the end of this 2 people . . who??, the Polish group? . . , shouted abuse at Dmitri. A very unpleasant scene. Went straight to the bar for a drink and canapés after Recap and Briefing. Then had a very scenic meal up at Hot Rocks, ending with some tasty goats cheese . A long chat with Arturo in the bar. Put the clocks back another hour
Another day at sea . A talk by Damon on The most remote oceans in the world. . Then I enjoyed a jacuzzi and sauna whilst David went to Anthony´s photography talk.
Had problems at lunch up on deck: we ordered just past 12.00 and a shared starter came at 12.25 but there was no main course by 12.52, so we walked out as I was in charge of bridge at 13.00. Luckily 3 others did turned up for the bridge!. David then went back into the restaurant for lunch!. Went to Leá's talk on the Silence of the Seas at 14.00 and then resumed bridge till 4pm, Dmitrí's Trivia was all on the Roman Empire. Had a siesta before Recap . & Briefing. The food at dinner was poor and we had a long discussion with Raisa, the Maitre' d
March 25rh
Another day at sea. Damon gave a talk about the Extinction of Species and then Mila gave one on Easter Island which I really enjoyed. We lunched up on deck on Linguine with a pesto sauce.
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There was no bridge game as Marianne & Tony had arranged to play later with Chris & Sylvia, but had not had the courtesy of informing us!! Also a talk byAnthony Smith on bronze sculptures: ha had done the one of Wallace for the Natural History museum; also one of Shackleton for South Georgia. Then had dinner with Lea.
on to Isla Salas y Gomez