Diary 2023 Saudi
David's web diary for this holiday
May 2nd. Moraira to Jeddah
Flew from Alicante to Madrid at noon. Then a long walk to terminal 2 and a very welcome Business Lounge: we had to queue to enter it but then it was fairly empty and very spacious with swivel armchairs by large windows. Enjoyed danish pastries and fizzy water, David a glass of Chardonnay.. Then onto Saudis Air, taking off around 5pm for a dry flight f just over 5 hours.Luckily they did a very good smoothie with ginger in our Business glass seats; but these were semi detached and I could hardly talk to one another. The food was good, not excellent.. I watched some programs on Saudi, a lot of archaeology to be done!! We were collected at Jeddah by a hotel driver and driven efficiently, but silently, to the Crown Plaza hotel. Here there were 4, photogenic, Silverseas staff, all dressed in white abeyas,thawbs and red and white headdresses. Not over helpful though!. Then up to a junior suite with tempting nibbles and cockiest.
A pleasant Saudi breakfast and then a swim on their 9th floor swimming pool with wide views of Jeddah under construction, the sea in the background. Boarded a coach effortlessly around 11 and were on the Silvercloud, not quite ready for us!, by noon. It was great to be recognised by several members of the crew. Learnt that the ship would be dry until May 6th, when it left Saudi waters, but were quite happy with the non alcoholic champagne. Lunched in Hot Rocks and then had coffee outside on the back deck of 8. entering our cabin,718m at 2pm I was very pleased to just about finish unpacking by 3.10 so that I could get. 30 minutes siesta before Skulk, the expedition leader, gave a 90 minute introduction to the program for Saudi Arabia. We then rushed for the shuttle bus ti the passenger terminal, and from thence to the shuttle Ito town, in order to see the old part of Jeddah, a W H site, before our next 3 days of non stop activities. It would have been better had a map been available but, eventually we discovered some of this, in a really poor state. We were back aboard for a meal in Hot Rocks, where the staff were not too switched on!, and then a chat with the pianist, George from Romania, and Martin, the activity manager, an old friend!
May 4th. Medina
An 8 am start for a long excursion to Madina. Again we had to take the shuttle to the terminal , where we boarded a bus to the station: this was a fantastic piece of architecture. We waited quite a long time before boarding a high speed train at 10.30. We were in business class, and, being unable to sit with David, I moved to sit opposite an Australian couple fromBrisbane, Colleen & Ian, and enjoyed talking to them. We were served a substantial snack, of which i took just the non calorific bitsOnce in Medina, and here the station was the same wondrous design, we drove 30minutes for lunch. Just before we got to this farm, the 2 coaches were unable to get under a bridge, so we walked the 200 metres or so. The farm was really luxurious and the food was good. Surrounding rooms were splendidly furnished and there was a lovely pool outside. We then drove to the 2nd holiest mosque in the world, Saudi. We were not allowed inside the gigantic mosque area and our Saudi guide, wali, had a horrific row with the armed guards as one of our group had put their foot over the dividing line. Wali was intent on having the last word and completely forgot that he had a group to guide. David pulled him away once but he returned after only a few yards. In the end marcel removed him. We then went to an exhition hall which showed the various stages of the mosque ´s constructions:here again there were problems with Wali. For the next 3 to 4 hours we stopped at the outside of various mosque, the battle site of Mohammed ´s defeat of the pagans from Mecca some 1440 years ago, a date shop and a shopping mall, almost an hour here!!. The final Cuba mosque was very pleasing. Then back on a 7.30 train, yet another snack, and finally arriving back on the ship at 10.20. A 14 hour day to see a famous mosque for 20 minutes. Despite our extreme irritation with Wali. No mall, no mall!! We were glad we had made the trip. I felt really good in the abeja that all the ladies hands been given. Once aboard we went up to the bar for a banana and a non alcoholic champagne : chatted to Martin who had been to the Cirque de Soleil. Then back to the cabin to prepare an overnight case for our early morning departure for Al Ula
Up at 5.45, a quick breakfast and off at 6.30. 72 of us boarded a plane at 8.30 for the one hour flight north. Our 1st stop was at Eleohant rock, a charming location and the passion fruit drink was to die for!! Then we went to Hegrah, an impressive tomb of the Nebareens? Who created Petra. The rock face had been protected for centuries by a layer of mud: what will happen to it from now on?. Then a short hop to many more tombs, being allowed into the last one reached. Finally to =, the sear of Parliament in days gone by. The next stop was lunch at the Shaden hotel: this was where we were to stay, the key being given to us after lunch. It was a pleasant buffet, nothing special. The mountains or rocks around the hotel, run by Acc, were fantastic but the place was poorly maintained.. between 3 and 5 I went for a swim in the fantastic pool. At 5 we set off again for the old town of Al Ula. A golf buggy took us the last 400 metres.. There 4 of us had an incomptehrnsuble guide.. The city inhabitants had been removed about 6? Years ago and this chopping opportunity had replaced it!!; but the guide did eventually show us some old dwellings , which would be restored in the coming years. I sat down with Chris and Tiquita from Auckland for a wile, before walking back through the town and getting a buggy back to the bus: David arrived a few buggies later, sulking a trifle!. Thence to f
Dinner at the XXX Farm, tables of 5 where we sat with Chris & Tiquita. First of all there was Saudi dancing by the white and red checked Saudi bedouin: this was very natural and they were obviously enjoying themdelves. The buffet wa mediocre in spite of a barbecued lamb. This was followed by an lopportunity to don local dress, David surprising me by volñunteering for this. And then an hour of stargazing - for those who could see any stars! - but the presenter was a good speaker and it was interesting hearing about the zodiac signs. Back in the hotel we enjoyed a coffee on our terrace with its wondrous floodlit views/
May 6th Still at Al Ula.
I had a panoramic swim soon after 7. The small suitcase on Bus1 before 8am we then wandered down to breakfast- the area between the rooms and the restaurant a wilderness, just dust, though not far. Only the bread at breakfast was memorable and we were unable to sit outside . We left at 9 am and drove to YYY, were we walked to the ´library´; rocks with writings carved upon them fairly high up, over 2400 years old. Then we had a go at ´writing´, or etching, ourselves with hammer and chisels. Then to an archaeological dig site, seeing more tombs before driving on t ZZ, with pictures of lions, an interpretation centre and more high up tombs, about 1400 discovered , I think, up to the president day. Our final stop was at Maria’s, a theatre, art gallery, exposition hall, etc, etc, built on the outside entirely of mirrors, thus enabling it to ´disappear´into the landscape, as all one saw was the reflection of the surrounding rocks. Quite fantastic. David took great exception to the visit of the Health minister!!. Lunch was at the Bunyan tree where the lunch was truly first rate and the view stunning.We had a long chat with the Egyptian restaurant manger. Our flight back was at 3.15, getting us in to Jeddah by 4.30 and back to the ship for sail away by 7. A truly memorable part of Saudi, which we feel lucky to have seen. Hopefully Saudi guides will improve in future years. WE We eventually got back to thr ship at 6 and within 15 minutes there was a lifeboat drill and then we sailed. We had canapees and mock champagne after a chat with Martin. Poor starters but excellent sea bass in the Terraza. Back in the cabin I was able to watch the Coromatiom
May 7th
Went on a three hour trip to Yanbu, past semi barren areas with dead palm trees
May 8th. At sea
I started the day doing aquarobics with Kim and then breakfast. Jessica gave an interesting talk by Jwssica on Your journey through words, designed to prompt ones memory of any journey. Very interesting but one needed to be creative!
We had lunch in the restaurant at noon, and then a siesta before setting out on our jeep adventure inland. We were in a jeep with Victor and Carolyn, there being, maybe, 15 jeeps. We drove north past never ending resorts and then,after about an hour, onto very bumpy road, through wadis and then had 3 non event stops: for what unknown reason?. OK, the second one did possess one single toilet sand a so-called museum. The 4th stop was ina wadi where they cooked their flatbread in a traditional manner. Mad their was goats cheese to go with it and a hot drink; also a dervish dancer and a belly dancer. The scenery was very pleasant, but suffered from what Al Ula offered!. So, not a successful outing. Having got back to the ship on a super fast motorway by 7 we enjoyed cocktails on the back deck before a problematic dinner in La Terraza, but the actual food was yummy
A lecture by the guest lecturer, Chris Newton, on Egypt, an overview, Then a swim, diary writing and reading before a German lunch on the pool deck. A siesta and then bridge at 1,30 in the Dame restaurant.We got 2 tables, 9 of us : I played with Lea against June and Ken. At 3,30 I went to Yvonne ´ Art Class where i tried to draw and paint a puffin. Then a lecture by Alex on the construction of the Suez Canal. David left me at the Venetian Society ´party´? , and I discovered that there wer 5 couples with more than 600 sea days aboard, the largest number being 1400!!. We then sat outside having a cocktail and canapees and talked to some Silverseas employees, one of whom came from Newquay. Then we ate in the restaurant by ourselves, not having been invited to a staff hosted table!. By this time many staff knew that David was not amused by this!!
May 11. Docked at Alexandria. Tour to El Alamein
German and Italian cemeteries
May 12th. At sea
May 13th. Chania, Crefe
Set off for a jeep tour to the X winery about 90 minutes from the dock, after our first zodiac landing. The jeep was quite uncomfortable but the scenery in the mountains was well worth the discomfort. After a wander through some vines we descended to the attractive vineyard. Here we had the customary tour before sampling 5, basic wines with a good platter of cheese and salami and the most delicious fried potatoes. The return journey was on a decent road. We then wandered through. The old town for 30 minutes or so: this was chGythionarming although there were far too many tourists. Back aboard by 2pm my very necessary siesta was ended by the announcement of a fire in la Terraza, which was soon put out!. We then sat on the back deck where I tried to read, none too successfully. I then had a swim, and read and snoozed in the cabin. We met up with Yvonne for cocktails in the Panarama lounge and then had dinner with her in the Terraza, sitting outside, quite magical as we sailed along the coast of Crete
May 14th . Gythion
May 15th. Athens
End of the 1st leg of our cruise in Athens. About 80 people got off and 100 new people joined. We set out for the Acropolis where we have never seen so many tourists; we queue to fet in, shuffled slowly around and queue to get out!!. We then had 20 minutes walking around the only old area of Athens.. This was followed by lunch at which had fantastic views of the Parthenon. And the food was good. We shared a table with 2 Grand Voyagers, or bi-polars, Eric and Eva. When we came to return to the ship there was no coach!; so 8 of us plus Jessica has a 30 minute wait, sitting down on the restaurant terrace, whilst a minibus was arranged. Jess wrote a fantastuc poem about our adventure, Back aboard a swim, a siesta and then read on the back deck before bumping into Neill and Lynda, birders who we had last met between Halifax and Southampton in 2022. Spent the evening on the back deck with canapees and the Terraza. Was fascinated watching the AB ants lifting the gangway after the pilot came aboard dead om 10
Back aboard we showered and then read on the back deck before Recap and Briefimg: Roselea gave a long ,painful talk on fish and we were not over impressed by the new guest lecturer, David ¿¿. After this we had 2 new butlers in 10 minutes!, Randy now being assigned to us through to Dublin. We ate outside on , the Terraza, all by ourselves. Afterwards David got trapped talking to Colleen and Ian, and there was no Bossa Nova!!
May 17th. Olympia
Reg ship docked in the early morning at Katakolon and we were in a coach with our favourite Greek guise, Helen, by 8am. And ab hour later were being introduced to Olympia, before the crowds, from the Celebrity ship Beyond had arrived. We had heard a lot about the site and the Olympics en route. The Olympics of antiquity , approx. 800BC to 395 AD. We saw lots of ruins and the running stadium during 90 minutes . We then has an hour in the museum with Helen guiding us round. Then to the XX Olove farm where we had a welcome drink of Ouzo and a tour before am adequate lunch with singing and dancing. There was a hard sell of their jewellery and other tack, We were back aboard before 2.30 and I had a swim and a siesta before a lazy afternoon on the back deck . A long evening as we could not get a table in the restaurant until 8.50
May 19th At sea.
A sleepy morning after a Pilates session. Lunvxj outsíde in the Terraza was cut short ny a gale force wind which fprced us into yield Pamorama lounge tp enjoy our cheese with our coffee as we watched the ship´s passage through the Messina strait. Then I had a 3 handed bridge session befpre the Briefing what told is about the trip to Erica from the new port of Trapani, the replacement for Tunisia, whom bound and waterlogged. Then I attempted to paint a bear on Yvonne ´s aet class before a talk on the Origen of the Alphabet by the guest lecturer, Favid Price-Jones. After the Vanetiam Spciety reception we had dinner with the future cruise manager, Joshua. Also a different Cathy and Mike and Geoffrey and Annette
May 19th. Trepani, Sicily
We were docked here by 8 am. We went ashore on the town exploration walk with two of the Expedition team, Gert and Yvonne. We first walked to the Torre Ligny, a 1840s fortification, now a museum, with many models of boats, including the Bounty. There were great views from its roof. Then we went past the old fish market before re entering the central part of the town and entering the cathedral. Initially there was hardly a soul around but now the place became alive. We had a drink and a monster cannoli at a restaurant before wandering around by ourselves. After lunch we went out again for a long walk before coming back and enjoying a smoothie on the back deck. Ate by ourselves in the restaurant, and another cannoli, this time smaller
May 22 Bejaia port for Djemila
Departed about 8am for our 10 hour tour, scheduled 3 and a half hour journey time. Equipped with picnic bag. The mountains were welcoming and oach 3, police escorted, ran along the sea before turning inland. After 2 hours we stopped for restrooms, a mint ea and 2 delicious pieces of baclava. An hour further on it was announced that we would be stopping for lunch, que?.. I thought this would be to eat fro the packed lunches provided by the ship, really stupid as we could eat them in the coach, thus giving us more time at Djemila, but…no, it was at a restaurant, but would only ! Take 40 minutes, thus leaving us the princely sum of 80 minutes at the fantastic UNESCO site!,. Not amused. It was indeed impressive, but we only had 90 minutes there and the guide rushed us round it. Wondrous mosaics in Yuen museum at the end. On the way back David was really impressed by the police escort in the 9 km tunnel. A lovely evening with cocktails and then dinner outside watching the lights of the port fade into the distance with a new moon. Then a restful Name that Movie with Martin and the Romanian pianist George .
May 23rc
A day at sea, steaming full speed to Lisbon, being informed of the probability of this by letter. Portuguese pilots were striking fro the 25th to the 27th. Yvonne gave lecture on Portuguese colture. I had a swim after bridge and we went to the Captain s farewell, followed by dinner with Tanya and 6 bi polars, 4 of which were also life long friends. Neither of us enjoyed this
Another day steaming towards Lisbo. 2 Enrichment lectures by David Price- Williams, on the Arabs in Spain and then Neanderthal Man. A decent game of bridge. During the afternoon we were informed that the port strike had been called off,. Ate alone in the restaurant.
A five hour trip to Obidos, a medieval city about 60 k north of Lisbon. Quire touristy but we found parts without the crowds. Just had the children on our bus. After a drink of the local sour cherry drink, ginjinha, in a tiny chocolate cup provided by the tour company, we stopped by ourselves for a sour cherry sangria. Back on board before 2 we had a quick lunch before walking into town, spending 222 hours down memory lane and stopping at a fabrica de pasteis to check the quality. Then spent an hour on the back deck enjoying a fruit smoothie. Had a swim before a farewell meal with Linda and Neil, followed by a Fado show
May 26th.
End of our 2nd leg and a new captain, hotel director and activity manager. We set off for Sintra, a UNESCO site, almost a 6 hour trip. We parked on the outskirts and walked for 30 minutes to the Quinta da Regaleira, a palace and theatrical garden built by a billionaire between 1904 and 1910. Its piece de resistance was its circular Initiation Well, 27 meters deep, designed as a sort of Herculean labours for an initiate into a Masonic Lodge. We had to queue for 25 minutes but it proved a worthwhile wait. The gardens and follies were fantastic and we also went into the gothic monstrosity of the mansion. Then we had a high tea in Lawrence’s Hotel. Pasteis de nata included, but the coffee was awful and the whole place too crowded with 60 plus of us, so not a great memory. Then we wandered around the town for an hour. Back to the ship by 3pm. A new captain and hotel director. Ate inn the Terraza after the Briefing, We had a long chat with the new, Serbian, bar manager.
May 27th
A morning at sea, The new guest lecturer, Carol Bell gave her first lecture on Europe s Atlantic Facade. She was very excited by discoveries within the last few years on the timings of when people spoke Celtic. And a talk by Lisa M a german, on sand, with Trivia, with the new Activity manger, Daniel, in between. The ship docked at Vigo just before 1am. After lunch we walked the short distance to a catamaran that took 45 minutes to take us to the Cies islands, there we had an hours easy walk with a lovely lady, Anna, across the causeway and on an easy path to a great view over another beach to South Island. We then enjoyed a banana before walking back by ourselves along the incredibly long beach. Then an ice cream and another short stroll before the arranged return time of 5,45, no sign of a catamaran and no announcement. Just a little rain!. David got very agitated but Roselea and Matt seemed unconcerned. When we finally boarded the catamaran at 6,10 Roselea arrived aboard with 50 ice creams to placate us all. A scenic depart from by now, a sunny Vigo, followed . We had an interesting meal in the restaurant with problems with all but one choice, culminating with a Seville orange rafts, Anything but!, but the pastry chef assured Nobleman that it was and sent back an identical panne cotta with an orange sauce. We had a long chat with the new entertainment manager, Daniel
May 28th
A sleepy day with sore eye as at sea. Lectures by Jess on Fantastic Ferns and by Carol Bell on where tin had come from back in the Bronze Age, Cornwall. Two tables for Bridge for about 100 minutes..after this a long afternoon with only a Briering. Woke up later on and we enjoyed a pjs o sour alone on the back deck and then dinner outside in the Terraza. David them enjoyed people’s Behaviour in Continue the lyric
The ship anchored off Bel Île at 7 am but then at the last momute zodiac. Operations were halted due to the swell. So it was a day of doing nothing, just 2 games of Trivia and another team game. The ship did reposition to Quiberon during lunch, but the swell was also bad there, I was able to read quire well in the sunshine of the back deck. Ended up eating with Mike and Cathy , with two expensive wines bought by Mike
Had a good meal in the Terraza.
May 31st. Douarnenez
The ship anchored off Douarnenez and we went to Locronan from there on a 3 hour tour. this was a really picturesque medieval town, with no other tourists at that early hour of the morning. After a short guided tour, including an imposing church, we had an hour to explore by ourselves. We also had a voucher for their famous fatty cake, which had oodles of butter in it.. I was not so keen on it! Once back in Douarnenez we Chatted to a TV crew who were covering the protest against cruise passengers and wandered around before having a crepe complet in a Creperie overlooking the sea. The zodiac ride back to the ship was not as wet as I feared. Then a siesta, a read on the back deck, Trivia and a Briefing. Due to the continues storm system, we. Would be going to Cherbourg rather then Roscoff. We skipped the Venetian Society party,, but dined with Leslin
Docked off Tresco by 7am. Off on three packed tenders around 9 am. We walked to the village of Grimsby, quite busy as it was half term week. Incredibly beautiful and not so cold and windy as we had feared, but the walk from the pier to the gardens entrance was bitter . We got back to the gardens with 35 minutes to spare so had a brief stroll round the magnificent gardens. Lunched outside at the Terraza and enjoyed a Cosmopolitain cocktail, un asked for!. Then to Bryher, here we had a good walk by ourselves and then stopped at the same cafe as last year and enjoyed a lobster sandwich, two cakes and elderflower juice , alongside many sparrows!. After the Briefing the recaps by Roselea, Colin and Lisa incensed us, the former so long and completely incomprehensible. Am d Colin obviously did not understand the subject of tides. Enjoyed Daniels show, Forever Frank, but he only had an audience of around 30.
June 3rd
Morning at sea before reaching the Calf of Man. Lectures by Matt on Irish Sea birds and Carol Bell on the Origens of the Celts.. after lunch. We had a 90 minute zodiac cruise along the island with Roselea and six others. From the correct angle there really was a drinking dragon. Aptains farewell, sparsely attended and then Liars CLub which we won and received fifty points
June 4th Iona and Lunga
Went ashore at Iona and enjoyed a 150 minute walk, alone. Along the sands, strolling into infinity. Returned just in time for the end of the supposed final Trivia , but no redemption of points. A late lunch and then a Briefing before going ashore at a rocky outcrop on Lunga, a different side of the island to that in 2022, and more difficult for me, but the expedition staff were wondrous helpers. David thought there were more puffins here than in 2022, I the contrary and there was no huge colony of othrt seabirds. I then had a swim. David met up with Carol Bird in the Panorama lounge to ask more questions on Celtic languages. Then the ship hovered off Staffa and Fingals Vave, the bow on deck 5 being opened up for us. After dinner Daniel did a third musical show to an audience of only around 35
June 5th Portrush
The ship was off Portrush by 7am. We went ashore in a flat calm for a tour to Downhill House and Temple. Only a dozen of us in a very smart minibus with retired catholic policeman , Malachy Norton, as our guide.David was really impressed by him and I was quite nostalgic for Kirkby Fleetham on seeing the walled garden and the icehouse and the haha. The house had been built by Earl Bishop between 1780 and 1791.we also stopped for a short wander in Port Stewart. Then we walked around Port Rush for an hour. After lunch I finished pa king, played Trivia before seeing the disappointing. Guise video and having a drink with Nancy Dunlop , a pole to polar. A poor last dinner in the restaurant before.istening to George singing, a really good opera voice. Suitcases outside the room by 10.30
June 6yh
Once the ship docked in Dublin at 6 am we had to go through Irish passport control. David was not happy with this, having realised during the night that it was not necessary for Irish and British citizens. We had a leisurely breakfast outside on the Terraza and then sat out on the back deck of 8 before boarding the coach to the Anantara Marker hotel. Once there we checked in our luggage and set out on an almost five hour tour on foot of Dublin.once back we had to join a long queue to. check in, and when we eventually got to our room, there was no ,luggage and David had to search for that. Then he turned on beforethe TV and the general manager asked to be contacted if one had any problems. This was dutifully done, resulting in a 20 euro glass of champagne around 7pm.. before that we had had a walk around the Grand Canal. Assiniboine, and we had another short walk afterwards. Then a roll and cheese and steak, plus fruit and coffee in the room. A relain bath and bed.