Diary Ireland 2023

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Many more photos to be found at David Grant

Friday, August 18th. Moraira to Belcoo

We had a noisy flight to Dublin, and on arrival there David pulled the hamstrings in both his calves on an escalator. Then we had problems picking up our Hertz rental car. First we could not find the car in the multi story garage. Then we had difficulty obtaining a GPS system. They had a monkey delivering it, who did not speak a word of English.
We then had a two hour drive in dismal weather , northwest to Belcoo on the border. Here we stayed in the Old Customs House, which was a delightful little business. . Our room was basic and had had zero view
We went down to dinner and had the wondrous feast. We will need to be more careful with what we eat for the rest of the holiday. We shared an immense portion of Guinness wheaten bread, and a beetroot and ricotta salad for a starter, then David had delicious, battered fish and chips, and I had an alright ravioli with spinach, each of us had a glass of lager.
Back in the bedroom. I was really tired once again and soon went to sleep. 

Belcoo is right on the Irish border and the bridge beside the old custom house leads straight to the Republic. Clearly what is now the Inn was the custom house in the past, and you would have stopped here to declare your goods in your wheelbarrows on the way to Dublin.

Saturday August 19th Belcoo

We went down to breakfast at 9 o’clock and had a real feast. I had a full Irish breakfast and David had a brioche with bacon And the coffee was good too.
We left the hotel at 11 and tried to drive to Enniskillen but the the GPS thought otherwise. Anyway we got to Loch Erne and continued along it towards Bundoren. There we had a very pleasant walk and ended up in a café that David had taken a shine to . From there, we headed to Rosses Point where we had stayed several years ago. We looked at the iron man and then had a picnic nearby. We returned to Sligo and continued south to Strand Hill.
There we have another person walk past Mammy Johnson's ice creams and past the restaurant where we have had lots of lobster and chips. We sat on the front there. admirind the never ending reach. Chris used her new found toy - binoculars
We returned to Sligo and then headed towards Manorhamilton where we had a walk through a rather sad looking town which was full of pubs and estate agents. From here heading back to Blacklion and had a walk to find the Michelin starred restaurant there that had been booked up until December.. Then just a kilometre back to Belcoo
Once back in the hotel I had a siesta and read until dinner at eight. This was again very pleasant , I had the same beetroot and goats cheese salad as the previous night. Before going back up to the room, we wandered out to the bridge which was the dividing line between the north and the south. 

Sunday August 20th. Belcoo to Port Stewart

We had another good breakfast at Belcoo and set off at 10:30 for Portstewart. This journey took us three hours, including a stop for a wander around Enniskillen and a detour round sympathetic lanes. We found a place to park on the front at Portstewart and walked around for a while, and then walked up to our hotel, Mr and Mrs Jones, around 2:30. This was too early for them and we returned there at 5 to 3, still too early. So there was a slight dispute when they came out and told us bang on three that the room was miraculously ready, not having even asked us who we were up to the stage. The hotel including the room, was incredibly bling throughout  The room otherwise was fine. We had some lunch in the window area and then read for a while before venturing out again.

This time we drove to Downhill house and found that the gardens of this National Trust property that we had visited with Silversea in June, which were open free to the public for some reason, so we had a little wander there : not too far as David still has his two pulled tendons. We then continued to Castlerock where we had another short walk, and then drove on to Mcgilligan Point, here we walked to the Martello tower, and then across some dunes to the beach and back to the car.  We got back to the hotel about 6:30 and I had a half-hour siesta. We had a package with the hotel that included two nights plus one dinner so went down for this dinner around eight told them who we were and we’re given the incorrect menus. When we pointed out that we had this package yet again, they returned with different menus.  There was a choice of four or five starters and five or six main courses but three of the four we chose were unavailable, somewhat unfortunate. We both had chicken liver pâté to start with which was bland and then I had a black cod on a risotto of barley with salad, and David had Monkfish with chips that he did not like at all . We had numerous discussions with the waiter who kept coming to ask if everything was okay. Eventually the duty manager came along and dealt slightly better with the situation . We asked if a pudding was included, and it obviously was not, but he said we could have one. This turned out to be the best part of the meal crème brûlée and a lemon tart , I wonder what tomorrow will bring.

Monday August 21st. Port Stewart

An excellent breakfast and a very pleasant waitress. No mention of "guys". We left the hotel at 10:30, and had a stop at Dunluce Castle where we had a long walk round the outside and then went into it. We had a long talk with one of the its custodians , which was interesting. The next port of call was Bushmills Distillery where we went in to the shop and bought a bottle of Black Bush for Paul and Carol. From there there we drove to the Giants Causeway, where there were far too many cars to be able to park - with busses going in both directions along roads only wide enough for one, we decided to give the place a miss..

Along the coast was Balintoy harbour and beach . There we eventually managed to park and had a very pleasant picnic on a bench and also a short walk to the extremes of the harbour.
We then proceeded to Carrick a Rede rope bridge, which in fact is no longer made of rope - health and safety and all that. You needed a timed ticket to get there, and we did not have one. But the nice man on the car park let us park in the National Trust car park. I had a long walk in order to see the bridge, much further than I thought, but the journey back seem quite short.

Proceeded to Ballycastle, where we filled up with petrol and attempted to find the advertised scenic route home without success. So we came back along with coast, stopping at Kinbane Castle and then port Ballintrae. Here we got drenched by a one minute shower, which was followed by an impressive rainbow. We had another go at Giant's Causeway on the way back, but this time they claimed they were closed. We drove round Portrush and then back to Portstewart . Back at the hotel we had coffee and the rest of our lunch and then went for a walk round town then had a lager in the hotel before coming up for another coffee

We treated ourselves to a Morelli icecream on the front, and later had icecreams on the next two days

Tuesday August 22nd Port Stewart to Holywood

Had an earlier breakfast once the receptionist has found a waitress for us. Left the hotel before 09.30, and then drove down the Antrim Coast to Holywood. Stopping off at Cushendun and Glenarm for explores.

Arrived at Carols without any problems other than we could not open the gate to their gated community. After a short chat we went off for a walk with Paul visiting the two homes that David had lived in between aged a few months and six years. Back at base, we had a cup of coffee and then I had a siesta. At 5 o’clock the other people arrived for an early supper: they were Muraid and Patrick, Ali and Helen. We discussed life, Ireland and Northern Ireland for three hours over a pleasant supper of champ and chicken  With fruit and meringue to follow and a good array of cheese. Then more chat with Paul and Carol before an early night. 

Wednesday August 23rd. Holywood

We had a lovely day, staying with Carol and Paul. After a fairly small breakfast, we set off at an undetermined time to go down the Ards Peninsula towards Portaferry. We stopped at numerous places along the route, including Donaghadee, where we had an ice cream , and then proceeded on towards Portaferry. Bought some potatoes for Carol en route. Chatted to a lady with a decorated T-shirt who owned a pub called Pier 36. Finally reached Portaferry. We thought we were going to be rewarded with half a bag of chips each, but no chips shops were open. Eventually Carol managed to find a "purveyor " where she purchased two chicken pies which were very welcome. We had already decided that we would go back along the same side of the Lough to Belfast, which was just as well as the ferry was not running today for some unknown reason.

We go back to Hollywood  in less than an hour and then David and I went by ourselves to look at Campbell College. There we entered the building, there was nobody stopping us. We walked round the whole school, seeing David‘s name carved on the board of exhibitions to Oxford. Back at Carols, I had a short siesta and then we had supper at 5:30 in the lovely dining room.  We then had some of Paul’s Bushmills whiskey which we had bought for him and sat in the sun lounge chatting until 21.30, by which time Carol was more than ready for bed. 

 

Thursday August 24th. Holywood to Belmullet

We had a discussion about Paul's genealogy site and how he could use it to produe a photobook

I went to see the garage area that is a separate part of their property. We then set off for Belmullet. This was a 4 1/2 hour drive going via Enniskillen and Sligo. We tried to park in Enniskillen in order go to the bank and change outdated British paper notes, but parking was absolutely impossible.

We bypassed Sligo and got to Strandhill, where we have a great coffee, and a delicious chocolate ice cream at Mammy Johnson. We then continued along the Wild Atlantic Way.

The weather was showery at times but there were lots of sunny intervals. found Talbot Hotel easily and parked a little way away. Receptionist was not the best. The room, was pleasant, large, but did not have any view. It had a bath in the bedroom. I had a siesta then we had a snack before going out to explore the area. we went down to dinner at eight at the restaurant was very full. We enjoyed fish pasties and a fish and chips and a Banoffee pie between us. Once again, I was very tired by the time I got back to the room. 

Friday, August 25 th, Belmullet

A stationery day at the Talbot Hotel . After an adequate breakfast, we headed off round coast but found that it is in a Gaelic area and all the signposts were in Gaelic, which was hardly very helpful for tourists. We followed the Wild Atlantic Way to many different coves and beaches, stopping amongst others at Eris point, how much landing, Downpatrick Head where there were stacks offshore, and Bismarck Point most of these we had been to before about five years ago.

We also went into the visitors centre  at the Peat Museum. We had two little picnics along the way and got back to the hotel by 5 pm and had some coffee and another snack. We then discovered that my mobile phone was refusing to charge and David spent a considerable time trying to ameliorate this situation. It looks as though I will take over his number for the time being and with that will be able to continue on WhatsApp . At pm.we had a very pleasant seafood platter between us in a very noisy restaurant which was full of character. Then back to the room for another coffee.

Saturday, August 26.. Belmullet to to Letterfrack


After a good breakfast, we found a mobile phone shop in the town as my phone which was still to recharge. David spent two hours there with the owner, Mohammed, who came to the conclusion that my motherboard had ceased to function and he transferred all my information onto David‘s phone and sold David a new phone. So we did not leave the hotel till 11:30.
We then drove to Achill island which was very picturesque and beautiful. Also horrifically windy when one  got out of the car, but the scenery was well worth it. Then we continued southwards and stopped at the site where five ships of the Spanish armada has been wrecked due to gales. Once again the scenery was incredible. Then we went through Westport and finally got to Letterfrack. 
We stayed at the Rosleague  Manor Hotel.


We had a very pleasant room there which looked out over the water. Unfortunately the Internet did not read stretch to the room. So David had to go downstairs for an hour or so to finish transferring data from one phone to another whilst I had a siesta. We then went for a walk down to the waters edge. There were some overgrown gardens And we got our feet somewhat wet. After this, we had a lager in the bar. 

Finally, at 8 o’clock we went in to a crowded noisy dining room, but the food was exceptionally good and we had a pleasant evening. Back in the room we enjoyed a hot bath in their original bath tub. And I did some washing done as we were going to stay here for three nights so plenty of time to dry.

Sunday, August 27 staying at Rosleague Manor hotel.

We were disappointing breakfast, as the coffee machine has broken and the coffee they offered was not palatable . But the surroundings were very civilised and David enjoyed his scrambled egg and smoked salmon and I tried devilled kidneys with a poached egg. The scones were not up to scratch though,


We set off, for a long day of adventure with the weather, alternating between rain and sunny periods. We first stopped at Kalahari harbour before heading off to Lehane where we thought of having a coffee, but David walked out due to another customer. We then headed for Cong where we parked in a car park at the far end and walked around .

After this, we drove to Ashford Lodge where we had stayed many years ago, since then it has been hugely enlarged, but the broken sofa that we remembered is still there. From there we drove past Ashford Castle and on through the grounds to Cong Priory . I did not remember this and we had a very pleasant walk over rivers into the woods. Then we drove to Clifton and walked around and had a coffee and a delicious chocolate and raspberry tart between us. We then went to Cleggan where there were fishing boats and a sub aqua boat. Our final stop was at the car park at Coney Island. It was possible to drive across at low tide, but we just walked to the wet part; quite a long walk and then back again. David was still having trouble with his hamstrings.

We went down to dinner again and enjoyed their two course menu.. We had trouble with the receptionist who thought we had not booked dinner and David took exception to this. The meal itself was good; David, having a starter and the roast rack of lamb. I had the roast rack of lamb, followed by the cheese.

Monday, August 28.. Letterfrac
After a kipper for breakfast, we had a chat with the receptionist who was a local and told her about our problems of the previous night. Also the unhappiness at the lack of a coffee machine and the stale bread at breakfast.

We then went out and headed for Renville , which had a lovely beach: this was the place that David‘s parents went to for holidays about 1960. From here we headed to Roundstone where we had a walk down to the harbour and saw the restaurant where we had lunch many years ago.

We continued along the coast, stopping at several points. We had a picnic lunch beside a church overlooking gorgeous water and then continued to Coral Strand Beach down a very, very narrow road but it was well worth the journey and delightful spot. There was also a lovely garden that someone had created amongst the boulders there.

Next stop was at Lough Carrib, where we had stayed before around 1975 and had been bought a drink by a catholic priest from Liverpool. We went into a little delicatessen there and had a lovely almond croissant and coffee on the pavement outside, we returned home via Kylemore Abbey, which we had visited twice before. Here we saw the new monastery being built for the nuns: it was meant to be completed in December 2020, but seems a long way short of competion. Once back at the hotel we discovered a bottle of sparkling wine in our room, which is obviously been given to us due to our problems of the previous night. .

We enjoyed dinner, but it was once again quite noisy.

There were fires in the lounges tonight, whuch had not been lit the night before, and afterwards we sat in the lounge which had a turf fire.

 

Tuesday, August 29th Letterfrack to Ennis

Ater a good breakfast that’, but with still poor scones and bread, s we left Ross league with David having a chat to the owner who is still doing his accounts by hand and not using the computer. We had a lovely journey across the moors and lakes Then we suffered the traffic jams around Galway before branching off to follow the coast. We stopped for a walk at the castle we had visited before and then went to the chocolate factory and then on to the pubwhere we have had lunch before they did not do a crab sandwich so we did not stop this time. We then start in Valley Road home Where we sat on the pier and enjoyed our picnic lunch. The GPS took us a long winded way to Station Road in Ennis. We were there by 3:30 as it was 430 before we were eventually able to get the car to the old ground hotel:  this was a large hotel and they couldn’t care less that there are instructions arriving there partly due to a closed road where useless. We had a cup of coffee in the room and then went for a walk round the town, trying to decide which bistro we were going to go dinner. 

 

We walk to an impression Russian own table, and thenWe walk to an impression Russian own table. Talk to him as we cross the Baron.

Had dinner in Henry’s. And enjoyed that it was nicely decorated and not too crowded.

 

Wednesday August 30th. A day touring from Ennis

after a pleasant breakfast David went to have his haircut and had a nice Irish barber with whom he had a good chat. We left the hotel about 11 and drove to Spanish point where we were fascinated by the history of the Lantic hotel which had been built in 1803. Between 1848 and 1852, is a become an axillary workhouse Hotel today is now called the armada hotel and this was built completely new around the 1950s. We walked up to it were not overly impressed.

We then continued to trumps golf course and hotel at Donabate. We parked nearby and had a walk along the beach and had a chat to an Irish. Couple told us that we could have coffee in the hotel. So we did this part  Were not over impress other sites offered for coffee. We then continued to kill KU key where we enjoyed our picnic for lunch overlooking the beach. 
 
Dinner in the hotel's bistro, quite noisy

 

Thursday August 31st Ennis to Killarney

We left the hotel soon after 10 1/2 hours sort of stop where is Shannon airport to see how it has grown since David has been there years ago. After this we went to the flying boat museum at Foyle, which David had visited in the past, Chris had not.

Then we were very adventurous and climbed up the tower house car, a car photo, this was quite a challenge for Chris to descend the spiral staircase which had no rope to help. But wondrous views were to be had from the top. The next diversion, where is Brianna strata Strand, where Sir John casement had landed from a German submarine in 1916, and quickly being captured by the by the British. We stopped at FIona Strand, where Chris had a brisk walk along the windy Sands, which she really enjoyed. Then on to ballet Banyan, where we had a picnic in the car overlooking the gorgeous view.
Play chat.

Friday September 1st. Touring from Killarney

After a very pleasant breakfast with a step reception weather, we could speak to the duty manager that she the owner was not there We set off around the Kerry ring stopping at two magnificent features, Rossley and FIona Strand, where we had to invigorating walks. Absolutely beautiful, White Strand Beach. We then set off round Leskanic ring stopped at Port McGee Esposa, very Stanek village and we indulged in a café latte and a piece of carrot cake between us. From here we cross the bridge to Valencia Island, this is the wettest place in Ireland, but the Sun Sheldon for us today here we stopped at a Protestant church of which only the tower remained leaving Valencia island. We stopped at the skeleton experience car park where we enjoyed our picnic where is wonders for use with then continued on round the Scherick ring with some great views and to wake up to camera. Unfortunately before this, the rain came in and continued almost all

Saturday September 2nd Killarney to Baltimore

The owner was serving breakfast did not appear at reception last. We were checking out even though she was in the background of Scott not surprisingly, where is David why is card and my Revolut card were both refused again by their system. So we had to pay for the meals on the sterling card. The morning receptionist dealt with the situation very well. The owner was at the door as we left which we felt was a bit cowardly after.

We headed back up the Kenmare Road and stopped at ladies view. Where we met some Americans, taking a photo of a puppet a bit like Archie. We walked out of the rocks. Their interviews were a bit misty. We then continued to miles gap and then entered him there Kenmare which was very busy. Nine from here, we drove round the Ring of Vera on skinny roads which were very difficult to pass anybody on at all. We detoured off to a little harbour where they were facing the muscles and there was a bed and breakfast was something like 50 tables outside it. We then passed two more hangman one at noon where there has been a cup of mine back in 1870. He then proceeded to Castleberry from here and I will sonic roads to try and Gareth who is the top of the steps of youse, including a picnic. I will add a banana somewhere else. From Glengarriff, we headed on into Bantry and then to Skibbereen and then to Casey’s hotel just outside Baltimore. This was a three star hotel and we were had a lovely room in the lodge a few metres away along the road with views over the lake. We took advantage of the free scone and coffee they were offering and at this outside the bar overlooking the lake. Then we return to the room and walk down into Baltimore quite a long walk We walked to Tallac church before dinner where we had seafood, chowder, fish and chips and a crème brûlée. We shared a large seafood salad which also included chips and had our usual half of lager. On the way out we stopped in the bar part and listen to 6 musicians for about 10 minutes. Which was great fun.

 

Sunday, September 3.

I’ll have to have a pleasant breakfast with superb fresh orange juice. We set out on the road back to Skibbereen and pantry before doing the tour of the sheepshead way. This was extremely scenic. We stopped a couple of times for short walks, probably at hangman and then stopped at her Kista where there was a well-kept garden in memory to the 1985 victims of an air India air crash. This was in a wonderful position overlooking the sea when we stopped in Durres: first is a derelict grain warehouse and then for a walk round the churchyard of Saint Jameses Protestant church still in use today. We drove down to crook Haven, which was a lovely spot, full of people being a Sunday at the very scenic pub. After this, we drove to Mizen head where we shared an ice cream and decided not to walk down to the Lighthouse as I was under the weather. David did a really good job, entertaining a lump of lard all day as I have had a terrible night with my cough

 

Monday, September 4, David‘s birthday./ Baltomore to Trim

Unfortunately, another bad night so was not up to singing happy birthday for him. After another delicious breakfast with the best orange juice scones and everything that we had had in Ireland, we set off to do another loop of the South West Way. Our first stop was trigona beach, which was a delightful little cove, where people were swimming. We then went via leap to Glandore where we found a very nice café that did coffee and cakes looking over to union Hall so here we posted David‘s birthday. We then drove over the bridge to union Hall where we had a long chat with three people outside their house: The gentleman had played rugby at the same time as David, obviously from the south. We went into the church of Ireland church there. And then went down to see the plaque said where the barracks have been burnt in 1921 again from the air. We had a brief stop And looked over Gallery view Lighthouse.. Once nack at the hotel we had a walk in the evening sunshine . <amaged to change our table for dinner buyt the dinner menu on our 'active retired paxkage' wea spmewhat restricted, and David had a hamburger well charred!!, and I a too large portion of fish and chips. Did not eben a[[reciate the pear and almond tart!

Tuesday September 5th . Trim and the River Boyne Drive

I had a really bad night again, and the breakfast was fairly basic that okay in a peculiar room that was partly laid up for weddings. We then went for a walk round town starting first at the library: here they knew nothing about the burning of trim. We then went into the information office and found an incredibly knowledgeable lady who was just so helpful and gave David a book called trim 1920. From here we went into the castle and had an hours tour of it with a local guide who was very knowledgeable but did play tennis for the Americans in the group.

Also ranted on about films . Then we went back to the hotel room for a quick snack before setting off.  a decoder for work, fine boy in the Valley Drive Drive on the vine Valley Drive first stop was new Grange where we knew that we could not get an online ticket. It been booked up for about two weeks.. Then we took 70 minutes accessing the site of the Battle of the Boyne - due to 'road closed' signs, but we were allowed to wander round the grounds when we arrived at 5.

Dinner was the sa,e basic, restricted menu, so I had soup, pasta and a chocolate brownie: David smoked salmon, fish and chips and strawberry rouldade

Wednesday September 6th

Drove back out to the battle of the Boyne site again after breakfast. Here David had a long chat with Noel French, the author of the 1920 Trim book that the tourist office lady had given David: what a coincidence that he was now acting as a guide at this site!. After this we had a lovely lunch in the garden cafeterua there. Unforyunately not enough spare time to fully explore the delightful garden. We got to the airport ny 2.3, took off about half an hour late at 5.30, and were bacj home, both still coughing heartlly, by 11.

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