Santiago, Cap Verde
The capital of the Cape Verde archipelago, Praia on Santiago Island might be in African in body, but it is European in soul. In fact, when the Portuguese colonised the islands in the 15th century they found no human inhabitants. Thus Cape Verdeans have evolved with a highly unique blend of European and African ancestry, conversing in a sing-song language of Creole, African dialect and Portuguese. The islands only gained independence in 1975 (after a 15-year war), so Portuguese influence is rife and to some, relatively recent.
At almost 300 miles off the coast of mainland west Africa, the remoteness of the islands has allowed the archipelago’s natural wildlife to flourish. Naturalists consider Cape Verde as a mini Galapagos, with many endemic species. That, along with astounding landscapes, warm climate and clear waters is reason enough to visit. Add the liveliest market in all of the islands and you’ll soon fall in love with Praia’s shabby grandeur.
Originally named Praia de Santa Maria when it was first settled in 1615, the city is the nation’s capital. The city is built on a plateau near the beach Santa Maria beach, the town centre still has monuments that attest to its rich history. Due to Santiago’s location between Africa, the soon-to-be-discovered America and Europe, Praia became a slave central for merchants returning to Europe. Buildings built for the slave trade are still visible – including those with balconies overlooking the square where owners would negotiate the price of human property.
A quiet morning, reading on the back deck and then in the Panorama Lounge, the swimming pool being closed in port at the end of a cruise leg. Had lunch in La Dame for the 11 transit passengers, hosted by Charmaine and Jonathan. They had three tables instead of one big one, which I did not think worked so well. Nor was the food so spectacular as in Halifax, but still good.
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A bit rushed to get on the bus for the afternoon tour of Preia and cidade Velha, a UNESCO site. The town was pleasant but the guide was Mr Shouty: we stopped at the quaint Ethnographic museum, somewhat lost on us as we did not try to understand what Sergei was trying to say, long winded and in bad English.Then a walk through the market and a walk round town
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before the 20 minute drive to Cidade Velha, a really lovely old world village by the sea. We explored the old castle there , then walked down the charming Banana Street to the old church. Then back to a cafe on the front where we watched the women's Banake dancing and had a cold drink.
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Had a Briefing at 7 pm before eating in the Terraza at 7.30; early for us but there was a buffet there from 8.30 for the 80 people joining the next leg, but their flight from Dakar did not get them to the ship before 10.30!, and, apparently, the folks who left did not get to their hotel in Dakar until 4am