FOGO, Cap Verde. 2nd visit followed by days at sea en route to Brazil
2 visits , on October 12th and October 18th
Fogo and neighboring Ilha Brava are the southernmost islands of Cape Verde and at the western end of the Sotavento group. Unlike some of the other islands in the archipelago which were named after saints, Fogo’s name goes back to the volcanic activity of its dominant feature, Pico do Fogo, at 2,829 meters the highest elevation of Cape Verde and also its largest volcano. It was the third Cape Verde island to be settled by Portuguese –there is no indication of human activity before the Portuguese voyages of exploration - the discovery of Fogo is celebrated with horse races and the “Festas do São Filipe” on May 1. Sao Filipe is Fogo’s largest city with 20,000 inhabitants and the fourth-largest of Cape Verde. Sao Filipe lies on the western flank of a giant volcano which in his 9 kilometer wide caldera has the Pico do Fogo, an active stratovolcano which last erupted in 2014-15 and still today emits sulphur vapor through its fumaroles.
The island of Fogo is a vast cone reaching out of the ocean with the volcano, the Pico de Fogo, as its center. All over the island until the very near foot of this volcano there are little villages. The word "fogo" means fire.
We were here twice, a few days apart, and enjoyed the same tour to the lava field, with the 2nd visit including lunch. . A drive in the early morning up the road to the crater to 1600 meters in altitude. then down into the crater. Walking towards the two crater villages, we passed by many plants which make their living nourished by the rich volcanic soil. We walked on the petrified lava fields and passed numerous remains of houses that had been destroyed. often rebuilt on top of the original house. It takes a lot of resolve to rebuild your house, when you know that it is very likely to be destroyed by the next eruption, that will almost certainly come in the next 10 years. Once at the village we walked with Enrique who had lived in the village and spoke excellent English. We stood on top of the destroyed wine cooperative and then walked to the brand new primary school on the outskirts of the main village. We were shown various plants, including their green beans, Charlotte being the ship's expert on plants
We had wine tasting and lunch at the winery in the crater. Run by a married couple, they had done wonders in rebuilding the winery after the last eruption. There have been numerous eruptions in the crater - namely the one of 1951, 1995 and the latest, of November 2014. We bought a wooden carving of an African lady there.We had a talk from the Owner and sampled the wines. Then sat down to a good lunch; a fish carpaggio, chicken or fish with yummy beans and vegetables and a good dessert
Then take a panoramic drive to and through Sao Filipe before making the return trip back to the ship.

Wednedy October 12th. Fogo- first visit
Ashore by zodiac by 8:15 for the Eruptions tour, they packed us nine apiece into minibuses, But we actually had more leg room than on the previous day. We had two photo stops en route to the winery on the edges of the 2014 lava flow. The local ladies had come to profit from the tourists, with their wee statues of lava houses, proferred by their barefooted children. The wine stop was a great success; their Muscat was magnificent. We bought a wood carving of an African lady there.
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Then on to the full lava flow area. Lots of rebuilding here and new gardens planted. Did not need my walking sticks, the walking was all on cobbled roads!
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Click on any thumbnail photo and get a larger photo. . . . . . . . . . .
. On the way back to the ship we got dropped off, with difficulty, in San Filipino, and wandered around for 40 minutes.Then had to wait sometime at the Casa Colonial Guesthouse for the first shuttle bus back to the ship.
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Just got lunch in the Terraza before it closed at 3, . A siesta, then a swim, then a coffee out on deck 8
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before Trivia. Recap and Briefimg, then the crew parade before dinner in the Terraza and a brief look at the chocolate cakes up on the pool deck. Chatted to Carol and Lars in the Panorama lounge
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. . . . . .And then to our first visit to Sal Island
An early start for the 'Walk among the lava fields', this time with lunch in the pleasant winery. . 7 in our minibus and an almost two hour journey up to the Caldeira. No guide in our bus and Seb did not say anything to the group. Once at the village we walked with Enrique who had lived in the village, had been there at the time of the eruption, and spoke excellent English. Stood on top of the destroyed wine cooperative and then walked to the brand new primary school on the outskirts of the main village. We were shown various plants, including their green beans, Charlotte being the ship's expert on plants. Then back to the buses and the short distance to the new winery. The other tour was still there, but once they left it was very civilised. We had a talk from the Owner and sampled the wines. Then sat down to a good lunch; a fish carpaggio, chicken or fish with yummy beans and vegetables and a good dessert. PHOTOS of meal???
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.Some of these photos were actually taken on our 1st visit to Fogo on October 12th
Back to the ship well before 4, had a swim and a siesta before Trivia. Ate in the restaurant.
Thus the end of our 8 visits to 5 Cap Verde Islands
Pilates before breakfast and then a lecture by Yvonne on African Heritage and Tradition, which I enjoyed. Read, with a pause for a windy swim, for the rest of the morning. Lunch in the restaurant, a siesta and then my first attempt to get bridge going on this leg. There were six of us, plus one poker player: Sylvain and I tried , unsuccessfully, to teach him some bridge. Then tea, Trivia and a lecture by Charlotte on the the Colombian Exchange: Plants and Power. Ate with Roddy in the Terraza and then had coffee with him in the Panorama lounge, listening to Jonathan and his Songs of New York City, a very pleasant evening.
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A very good day with 4 good lectures: Dayo on Birding for non birders and some birders: Robin on Mermaids and sea monsters: Roddy on the Amazon: Alex on Sweet and Fortified Wines with a tasting of Cha Caldeira Muscat, a dry Sherry and Tio Pepe. Also 70 minutes of bridge with Sylvain, Marian and Erie, whilst Clarissa, Harry and Michael just talked very loudly rather than trying to teach Michael! Venetian society party( we were now 'head girl and boy' with over 400 seadays, just pipping Lynne. Followed by dinner in the restaurant with Cathy, John , Ann and Catherine
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A leisurely morning after Pilates, as no decent lectures, but there was Trivia. Lunched in Terraza having become disillusioned with the chefs offerings in the restaurant. But not impressed by what I had in the Terraza. Had 5 participants for beginners bridge, Utta, Claudia, Suzanne- all 3 germans- and Catherine & Cathy and enjoyed that. Then at five there was an equator crossing ceremony on the pool deck. The polywogs seem to have enjoyed it and the expedition staff certainly did., and enjoyed their cleamsing splash afterwards

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.the Boyzz cuddled up in bed with theirEquator Crossing certificates!.
It was Lynne's 70th birthday and she had 11 guests to champagne in her suite, followed by dinner in the Dame. I enjoyed talking to Kevin and Ben, and meeting their wives Karen and Cindy. We went up to a deserted Panorama lounge for a drink afterwards.
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. . .
Saturday, October 22nd. At sea
Another lazy morning, just a Brazil Overview from Lea. No lecture at 11. Lunch by the pool, a siesta, then another session of teaching Bridge to Utta, Claudia and Susannah. Tea and Trivia and a precap and briefing. Dined with Meghan in the Terraza. A really sleepy day for me, a constant struggle to stay awake
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