Visit to France August 2022
Wednesday 17th August,
Left Moraira at 9 , having had 6 weeks of extremely hot weather, 32-41 degrees. At the last petrol station before the French border at La Jonquera there was a queue of more than a kilometre of cars waiting to enter: what madness, and, in the end it transpired that petrol in France was now almost the same price as in Spain. Arrived in Belesta around 4 pm, just as clouds were gathering. We took a glass of wine and our picnic lunch down to their natural pool, with the thought of my going for a swim afterwards, only to hear thunder and see the first drops of rain within a mouthful!! So beat a speedy retreat, or as speedy as possible due to all the inclines and steps, back to the room. We then ate on its pleasant, but hardly covered, balcony, so had difficulty keeping dry!. We then attempted to walk around the village, but rain turned us back. I had a siesta and we went for dinner at 8. It was fantastic food but the ´welcomé and service left a lot to be desired! Hotel Riberach had been the village wine Cooperative for 75 years from 1920. Recently converted into a superb hotel by 2 architects. A great junior suite but without a great view: but we had got a very good package courtesy of Secret Escapes , so could hardly expect their better views for a mere one night stay. Not over impressed by the receptionist upon arrival.
Click on thumbnails to enlarge photos
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Views of the Hotel Riberach as we approached . Parking was limited and then reception poorly signed from its lower entrance . Room 41 was spacious and had a narrow balcony with views of the church |
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The food was ofan outstanding quality: the different flavours of tomato in the dish seen above were phenomenol. Also the deserts . We would definitely stay here again - at the same good price! |
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Next morning we wandered round the village for 45 minutes , this time almost defeated by the wind!. Then a pleasant breakfast and a wander round the beautiful, but sharply inclined, gardens. Decided not to brave their natural- the water filtered through reed beds- pool, due to the greyness of the sky.
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| We had a pleasant walk through and out of the village the next morning before breakfast. Then after breakfast round the gardens, which were magnificent and even had a playground for the Boyzz |
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. .Thursday, 18th August . . . . .
. We left the hotel past 11 am and had a pleasant drive of 4 plus hours to Chateau de Maumusson. This appeared to be a family chateau converted into Chambres d´hote and then into a hotel with the addition of a restaurant. We had the large Yellow room. We think there were just 6 rooms. Went for a swim in the, non spectacular, pool, but the rain drove me out after 8 lengths. Back to the room for a welcome coffee and a nibble. Then we went into the restaurant, Maum, at 7.30. It was far more elegant than I had foreseen, but with paper napkins. There was a fixed price, expensive, 3 course menu, with options for extra courses. Neither of us were impressed by the elaborately presented dishes. The really annoying aspect was a mobile phone ring every time the kitchen was ready for one of the two young waiters to take a dish out. The roll was poor and the main courses ( a ceviche and a carpaccio) were just odd, seemingly prepared in advance , thus necessitating little cooking at the last moment . There was a choice of 4 entrees and of 4 plats, and this seemed to be in place for a year at least. We decided not to eat there for the remaining 2 nights, a decision that seemed to alienate the owner, Emanuel , who thereafter said absolutely nothing to us!! !
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A pleasnt picnic in a french Aire/ The Chateau was typically french, a little faded!. But the huge room was recently renovated and had a large bath. The restaurant was smart, but the food just odd, and very pricey |
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/ And there never was a lake: a cunning picture with reflection of the chateau in a huge, water filled, metal planter!!! |
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| We also walked round the outside of the house and its grounds , at the lady's suggestion |
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We chanced upon the Abbaye de Flaran: David made the decision to go round it: a really good decision as the buildings, especially the vast, deconsecrated, church, were super impressive |
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There was also an Art Exhibition and a table with bottles, all unique, with earth from all different places around the world. Also an interesting herb garden |
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After this we stopped in the very attractive town square of Valence sur Baise.
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We decided to have a Menu du Jour for 15 euros and were very pleased with it, gazpacho, tajine of chicken and tiramisu. |
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We got to our second reservation at Entras, Ayguetinte, soon after 3, and had a detailed tour in Spanish by its owner Michel. His father had escaped Spain in 1939! Michel showed us his vines and the ageing of his Armagnac, with many old tools on display/ We bought five bottles and some mustard/
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Saturday, 21st August. Expedition day!!.
After a swim and breakfast we set off to explore four Armagnac villages that David had researched.nunfortunately the GPS had difficulty finding them and in the end we set off for, what proved to be, the incorrect Roquefort, 95 k away. It was really tiny, claimed to have a fete this Saturday august 20th, but, no sign of it, then managed to type in Mauvezin which was a gorgeous old world village, but absolutely deserted. Then typed in Labastide, as one word, instead of La Bastide. We arrived there well past two, but had two cold platters and an apple tart in a pleasant restaurant, "le Bastignac", in the square, Had a walk around there, seeing a noisy car discharge a bride and groom for their wedding in the Mairie. . Then to St Justin, another small town with a pleasant square and, finally, the correct Roquefort, nothing special. Then sat off for home, Maumusson, ending up half an hour later back in Mauvezin!!? Then Typed in the correct destination, another 50 k away. Back in the hotel, I swam, washed my hair and read before having our evening picnic out on the lawn.
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We were just too late to have a menu de jour lunch but the cheerful waitress offered us a choice of cold platters . We were pleasantly cool in the shade of the town arches. |
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The quiet hamlet of mauvezin was more picturesque than our photos show! |
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Sunday 22nd August
Next morning a swim and breakfast and then on to Gaynor's and Vic's at St Priest les Fougeres, arriving there before 2pm.
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The Boyzz soon settled in and chose their poses: the wheelbarrow was a trifle daring as Fina found one of them there! |
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Chris had an hour's shopping in La Coquille with Gaynor, who bought her a lovely see-through 'cardi' . Also had a walk to the new patisserie/cafe in St Priest- yummy strawberry tart for our homebound picnic. Vic still a keen cook |
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| and we ate and drank superbly. Gaynor and I swapped books for the coming year's reading. And I had my normal late afternoon swims in the lake, which was looking super attractive . Fina and Paquita enjoyed their walks down to it |
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Wednesday, August 24th
Time to leave the chats, the food, the drink and the lake swims behind for another year and head home, via San Vicente de la Sonsierra, Rioja. It took us 6-7 hours to reach it ( and we first went to the wrong village but the correct one was not far away, this time!!). David had booked the 2* Villa de Sonsierra hotel in order to enjoy its Michelin Bib restaurant, not realizing that it only opened at lunch time!. So this was a bit of a disappointment to us, but we 'dined' amply in 2 Tapas bars. But first we enjoyed a walk up to and round the splendid Citadel
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| After navigating very narrow streets, we found a spacious room overlooking the roof tops and distant hills . Bold murals on the sides of buildings and vast views over the surrounding plains and the river Ebro. |
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| The old citadel gave our l egs a good workout before we investigated the town's bars. First had leeks and sardines in a modern bar, followed by a cheese platter in a friendlier bar on the square |
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